Saturday, April 28, 2007

Mahler and a Vietnamese Baguette Sandwich in Kowloon

What does a Bohemian-Austrian composer have to do with a Franco-inspired Vietnamese street snack? Not as far-fetched as one may think if you are very hungry after a moving (albeit sad) and scintillating performance of Mahler's Symphony No. 5 by the London Symphony Orchestra at Tsim Sha Tsui's Hong Kong Cultural Centre.

Desperate for some uplifting consolation but wary of an ailing stomach that should rest after 10.30pm, partner-in-crime Golfess and I went on a mission to locate a nice snack somewhere in the nether regions of Kowloon, some 5 to 7 minutes from the Cultural Centre by car.

After a couple of turns, stops and map consults, a small, bright, hole-in-wall joint called "Tim Kee" (添記) finally peered out of a dark and mouldy side street off a series of vibrant dai-pai-dong's. Pretending to be old-timers, we ordered a "big one" and a "small one". Cutting open 2 self-baked baguettes, the maestro proprietor deftly stuffed each with 3 types of Vietnamese sausage concoctions (扎肉) and baked them in an industrial oven. After a few minutes, the baguettes enjoyed nuoc mam-marinated carrots and cucumbers as garnishes, and were finished off with dashes of pepper and alas - Maggie Sauce! =)

The result was complex. Just like how Mahler's Fifth went from horns and banging cymbals in C sharp minor to A minor to D major......each bite offered its distinct stimulus from a slow, careful initial crunch into a frenzy of pepper sting, sausage jus and carrot tang. Bread flakes were flying everywhere in the car, and the devouring took less than a milli-fraction of the First Movement.

"Sha sha nong" Golfess for a wonderful snack discovery together, and enduring an evening of cackle.

Address: 添記, 26 Man Yuen Street, Jordan, Kowloon. T: 2385 7939.