“Softbank” in Central

I have long relished an opportunity to sample a much-raved private kitchen in Central that serves traditional, bona fide Cantonese banquet dishes ("dai sung" as opposed to "siu choy"). Lucky me I finally had the chance last week. I think the chef descended from the famous “Liu Chong Hing” (now “Chong Hing Bank”) house chefs.

The restaurant was tucked away secretly next to the Softbank Building and looked contrarily unappetizing. After deciding whether to take 4 dangerously narrow flights of stairs or spend 10 seconds in a death-chamber elevator that stank like hell, I entered a pleasantly decorated private room, greeted by the overwhelming aroma of a rare, 30-year Chinese “fa diu” wine (花雕) courtesy of my generous cousin. So, Italians made wines from sangiovese as such because they go well with their predominantly tomato-based dishes. I think “fa diu” is analogous for the Chinese, but why can’t most people in modern times appreciate this simple idea? I don’t believe in, for example, a “perfect Riesling for Sichuan food”.

Since I couldn't drink much, allow me to jump to the appetizer – 3 big slices of giant conch (螺片), cooked to perfection. Flavourful and softly chewy, small dashes of shrimp paste sauce made it even better. The baked crab shell was another classic flawlessly executed. It was all fresh crab meat and contained no distractions like onions or mushrooms. Rightly suggested by my cousin, eating without the accompanying Worcestershire sauce was a superior option.

Then I had the traditional “glass prawn” (玻璃蝦). Almost 2/3’s the size of a tennis ball, it was fresh and almost crunchy in texture. "Tim's Kitchen" (of Hang Seng Bank house chef fame) in Sheung Wan does a great job with this dish as well, but I think tonight Liu Chong Hing won out.

Top quality clear conch soup, stir fried shark's fin (貴花翅), Cantonese-style fried chicken (炸子雞) and veggies all came and went in a swift. Even though I was quite full by then, I just could not resist the final satay beef "cheung fun" (腸粉 rolled rice noodles) and lotus leaf rice. The cheung fun was smooth and slurpy, but I absolutely cherished the rice because its rich lotus fragrance reminded me of my favourite dish when I was little. How I miss this "gau sung" (traditional, old dish) flavour versus dingy nouvelle Chinese cuisine today.

Regrets I did not have a camera with me, but pictures would not do the food justice. Maybe I should wish for the day when we can capture the smell of food on bits and bytes.

Address: 3/F and 4/F, 4 Pottinger Street, Central.